You are looking at a 1981 Datsun 200SX race car Chassis that was originally run in the IMSA RS Series.
IMSA Ran an entry level support series in the 70s and 80’s called RS or Racing Stock. It was for stock tub race cars with limited modification rules and this car ran in the Champion Spark Plug Challenge back in the day.(I had to scrape the decal off of the Windshield).
The Basic Chassis or roller is what is for sale here and described next. I have many other parts that can be included for extra $. It is up to the buyer to tell me what to they want added. I will try to include descriptions of all the extra parts so you know what I have.
This features a very well designed and fabricated racing roll cage. Every suspension point and the front and rear crush structures are connected to the cage. Nearly every bar is triangulated for stiffness. There are sub frame connections under and through the chassis and an x-brace from the front suspension all the way to the back pick up points. This is great cage. Every point that went through the original chassis was opened up and a thicker plate welded to the original chassis and then the bar to make a very strong connection to the body.
This is approximately 500 to 700 hours worth of shop labor (500 hours x $30 hour, $15,000 minimum.) if you wanted it done to a bare chassis. NASCAR starts from the frame and builds the body around it, which is much cheaper than doing this way but it would not be legal to run in most series. This was so well done it sold the car to me when I saw it.
Once all this work has been done, the driveline and bodywork would be no big deal. This would be the best prepared E-Prepared car I have ever seen.
It has a full road race rear suspension with R180 Limited slip 3.70:1 ratio Axle three link setup with a Watts link in the rear to locate the rear end. This is exactly like the Roush Mustangs would have run in Trans Am for instance. The transmission and Drive shaft are not included but I do have a basic Datsun 5 Speed and a Z-car Drive shaft for sale. These parts could be purchased separately and used to fit this car.
The front is a basic stock McPherson strut 200SX suspension with Camber plates on top and a re-enforced control arm on the bottom. It includes a fully adjustable NASCAR style splined torsion front sway bar that goes through the front subframe on both sides. A tube is welded between the front sub frames to tie the subframes together and enclose the sway bar. You can see the adjustable aluminum arms in the pictures. These are splined to connect to the torsion bar. Nice work, just like you would see in a Trans Am or World Challenge car.
The car has Sumitomo four piston front calipers and Sumitomo two piston fixed rear calipers with stock Z-car disks are far as I can tell. The calipers look good and are iron Japanese units, probably upgrades for z-car brake in the 80’s. The front hubs are lightweight aluminum pieces. It has a dual Master cylinder with adjustable balance bar for the brake pedal, just like a real road racer. All the brake lines are flexible Aeroquip lines and are complete. The system is empty so I do not know if it would be ready to go right off the bat or need some work. I was going to go through it before running the car.
The Car comes with an old Fuel Safe fuel cell that should get a new bladder and lower case for sure. It looks to be a 22 gallon unit and has NASCAR Stenciled into the top shell It should be standard dimensions if you wanted to get a new replacement. I was going to fill the hole in the chassis and use a five gallon cell for Autocross. There are a pair of Holley Fuel pumps and a single Fram filter housing mounted right above the area with the fuel cell. All the lines are braided Aeroquip. There is enough Aeroquip fittings and hose on this car to equal what I am asking for the whole chassis. I would replace the hoes but the fittings all look servicible.
The Radiator and Oil cooler are included as they are custom fit to the front of the car. They also have large Aeroquip Fittings and hose that can be used again. I have a dual oil filter setup with the Aeroquip fittings or an Oberg reusable Filter that can be purchased to go on this car if desired. There was also an expansion/catch can for the oil system that can be purchased separately if desired for the oil system. I did not think it was a good fit and I was not going to run a dry sump so it was taken off.
The gauges are Stewart Warner and the Tach is Mechanical. The cable is there but you will need a distributor with the drive to use it. The gauges include:
There is a full wire harness and switches but plan on re-wiring to fit your needs as this was mainly a stock setup so all the lights are wired and the wiper is wired up. The Battery was up front in the stock location and the MSD 7AL unit is on the passenger side floor in the cabin. I was going to relocate both so I could add a passenger seat and move the battery where it belongs to the rear, but never did anything so you could leave it as is. A Mallory coil and distributor cap and wires are included.
A Momo Prototipo steering wheel with adapter and a Datsun horn button is included, Fun!
All the steel body work is there and is in good shape. No major damage, just a little crinkles and a few small bondo patches. It will need a paint job to look its best if that is a concern. There are spots of surface rust all over the chassis. As you can see in the pictures I was fixin the left front underbody when I decided to make the change. The steel body is light and well done. If the rules allow I also have a full fiberglass GT3 Body kit for this car that will be offered separately. It is in the rafters of the garage and does not have to go right now but is best to stay with the car as it is ready to get fitted to the chassis.
The body kit is thin fiberglass with minimal support for minimum weight. It is very light weight and includes:
Both front flared fenders
Both rear flared quarter panels
Rear deck lid with plexiglass window and aluminum braces, big weight savings this piece alone
Front air dam that replaces the entire front end but for the grille and lights.
I also have two GTU flared rear quarters that widen the rear end by a couple of inches. Not sure of the legality but they make the car look awesome.
It was designed for tube frame GT3 cars but will work with this stock bodied car with some modifications and fastener brackets. I would guess it will save over 100 Lbs over stock. All that is left is the rear pan, door skins and roof. With the body kit I also have steel panels for all of those parts too. Like I said it is a complete GT3 body kit, just supply the tubes.
The wheels on the car are heavy duty steel race wheels. The car has very long studs, wheel spacers and large quick change style lugs, all are in good servicable shape. I have 13x7, 14x6, 14x7 and 15x7 aluminum wheels for this car available separately. I also have a set of 20x9.5x13 Race tires if you want to autocross this car in EP. They are not in running condition as they are old and kind of hard, I bought them for chassis setup only. I will throw those in with the13” wheels or car if you want.
I have lots of Engine parts for building a race engine. These are stored in the basement so I do not need to move them for now. I will be selling them on ebay if the new owner of the chassis does not want them. The buyer of this chassis will have first dibbs on all the separate parts.
I have 2 full L20B/NAPZ short blocks that need to be torn down and prepped for racing. I also have a NAPZ Block. I have a number of rods and a spare L20B crank. I have a number of used L20B and NAPZ cylinder heads. I have Cams for both engines and some raw blank cams for the NAPZ Engine. I have a 40MM twin Weber setup on a cannon intake and a 50 MM Twin Intake and two partial 45MM Carbs for that setup. I have starters and water pumps and even an electrical water pump drive for it.
The car comes with a custom fit Header/Exhaust system that is straight from the header out the driver side. It is just like you would see on a NASCAR left side exhaust, it is even oval shaped at the clearance points. Extremely well done with a light coat of rust, might even be 409 SS. I also have an aftermarket header with smaller runners to make torque.
Just ask I probably have it as I collected a bunch of parts.
I bought this in 2002 with the intent to restore it and run it in E Production and Autocross it in E Prepared where the rules are very similar. The E production rules did not include this chassis at the time but I was going to petition the Competition committee to add it. After all the E Prepared rules for Solo show all the other E Prod cars but this one Datsun chassis number S110. All the other years of 200SX before and after are in EP so I figured it was just over looked.
I think it would be great for:
E Prepared Autocross
E Production Road Racing
MINI Stock circle track car.
Rallycross 2wd(Very strong and safe chassis).
The car is legal for E Prepared in Autocross but does not have enough interior parts left to run in Street Prepared in Autocross. It would be possible to run Street prepared or Touring with a number or additions from another 200SX. Some of the cage bars would have to be removed to meet the rules. Way too much work for me plus I would have to run a stock engine, why bother.
I think it is a great car to run in E prepared AutoX with an L-20B four cylinder engine. That was my plan in 2002.
The car is legal for Production or GT3 if I remember correctly for Road Racing. It is not listed as a chassis number in EP but all the other 200SX Chassis numbers are there so I am sure they would add it if you ask.
Any of you Formula Drift guys want a fully prepared Speed Word Challenge Touring type chassis in the form of an old school Nissan ( that is what Datsun was) and nearly any engine (read DE20T turbo) you want. This has a four link rear axle with a Watts link and coil perches on the axle for coil over springs. It has four wheel disks and a hydraulic e-brake could be set up easily for mucho rear brakes at your fingertips. If you like old school and want to smoke an AE86 corolla, this is your car.
In our area we have lots of circle tracks that run Mini Stock for oval racing. A lot of tracks only allow American cars but this would be great in a Mini Stock class that allowed it like on the West coast. It is fully prepared for racing and rear wheel drive, try that with a rusty Cavalier.
I think with the adjustable suspension and full roll cage it would make a great fully built Rallycross car too. It is very similar to a World Rally Challenge car as far as roll cage. Datsun used to run 510s in world rally and even made a special FIA Rally cylinder head in the 70s that is very high output and very rare. If you ever hook a rut you will be glad to have this multi point safety cage around you.
Make it into a rock crawler if you dare, just buy it and get it out of my garage! before I change my mind.
In 2004 I met my wife, moved from my house to our house, 2005 got married, 2007 got my son and last year my daughter. My plans have changed. I am now trying to put a low budget F-mod F-440 car together that leaves me more time and space in the garage. This is not a project for a new Dad.
Someone who likes to work on cars and save money can not do much better than to start with this. All the hard work that requires lots of equipment and welding is done. Just restore and paint, get an engine or build one out of the parts I have. And you are on your way with a very unique and competitive car.
I am asking $750 as it is worth many times that to the right person. I am only asking that to get it started and will sell it to the best offer, period. So start sending the offers. If there is little or no interest in the first few weeks I will list it on Ebay and let it go No Reserve starting at $9.99. I will sell, period so don’t miss out.
I can help arrange shipping or pick-up. I have a tilting flat bed trailer and van and can haul this locally for $.50 a mile if buyer wishes (see main picture). I can take this to a local depot for a shipping company or deliver it within a few hunderd miles. I can even include the trailer in the deal if a buyer wants. Just ask and I will provide details. You could just come and hook up the whole shebang and away you go.
Please e-mail me with any questions or for more pictures. I have a bunch of pictures of the car and can get you details on any of the separate parts if you are interested. If you need any related engine parts let me know and we can work out a deal on those too.